Recent content by gmotz

oh wow, interesing, yeah thats exactly what i was saying about 'a spacer missing' with the .6 vs /.7+ shoulder. I was thinking that shank (being measured) needed to be about .15" longer give or take, and perhaps a spacer was missing or there were shims used for tuning. The brass bushing there...

interesting, yeah i still am thinking that there is some kind of spacer or bushing missing, but this is the kind of thing where a $70 part is a lot cheaper than the time i would spend messing with the old one, which is all wallerd out anyway. it would be good to know if the driven sheave is...

Haha, its not 'never finished' until you give up or die. I learned a long time ago not to let unfinished projects stress me out, i might look like a crazy person from the outside, but i work on what i feel like working on while its fun and when it starts to stress me out or gets boring i go...

Dingocat, that would certainly explain it... although i would feel a lot less crazy if i hadn't read the murray part number off the belt that was a direct x-ref to the 5959. Its just very odd to me that the old belt worked PERFECTLY, fit perfectly and was very evenly .53" all the way...

Denny, i've heard people mention the 'brass spacer' there isn't one, its a bare rusty steel hub. We have 2" of snow on the ground so i probably won't be digging into the gokart again for a little bit. Plan is to order a new front pulley complete for 70$ from Comet, haven't got around to doing...

Thanks! Gotta do something every now and then to make up for the hours holed up in the shop working on stuff. After 11 years and 3 boys i'm starting to get a feel for the kind of projects they will get stoked on, sometimes its stuff that seems really simple and dumb as an adult, but its easier...

I've wanted to build one of these since i was a kid, about 2 weeks ago a buddy of mine who has a lawn care business dropped off this broken leaf blower. The leaf blower has already been in my shop once before, he broke the pull starter which i fixed, but he runs all his stuff on ethanol gas so...

look at that lil guy, cute OK i did your homework for ya, in about 2 seconds of googling, the rear uses a 5/8 keyed live axle...

The old belt was marked with the murray equivalent part number for the manco 5959, so it definitely was the right size at one point in time, the question is just what is worn, missing, broken, damaged in the front sheave for the cheeks to be sitting .2 inches closer together than they should be...

Got the new belt on last night, same issue... actually worse than the china belt. It might be articulating more smoothly but definitely wont disengage at idle. The moving cheek of the drive pulley is fully retracted at idel and isn't moving, the belt is just way way to wide. The old belt that...

I posted an amazon link to the correct stuff, its like $6 at literally any auto parts store. A small tube can probably rebuild a hundred small engines, or 5 or 6 big V8's.

Yep just extra sticky oil to help on startup. People have been building engines forever without it but if you ever get a chance to look over the shoulder of a high performance pro engine builder, they seem to use a lot of it.

If you check out the 'mike festiva' user on youtube, he built a really nice little XR100 with a predator that i might try to replicate. Used dirtbike rollers, especially like TTR125 and stuff are dirt cheap, for 200-300 bucks you can get wheels, suspension, all kinds of stuff that would cost...

There are like 5 million vids on youtube about step by step building a predator, i would go through a few of them... or maybe others on here have suggestions... and try to find someone who looks really professional and follow along.

Its really hard to say, i don't know the engines all that well so i'm not sure where else you might have caused damage. Typically you need assembly lube between any metal surfaces that are touching, the assembly lube gives you a few seconds of protection until the oil starts moving through the...