Recent content by MTScott

Something I've come to accept, the CVT isn't meant for all uses. It can't gear down for a hill climb, because, well... it doesn't have gears. The engine RPM controls the primary, and the wheel RPM controls the secondary. You're stuck with what you got. I've gotten more than one request for...

Okay, that makes sense to me... and it'll actually hlpe the build in a couple ways. First way... I eliminated bump steer in a simplistic way by making my tie rods the exact length as my A-arms, since the GD plans make them parallel. This gave the tie rods the same arc as the A-arms. In order...

The grand daddy kart plans call for the steering in the rear (behind the A-arms), but, I'm curious... does anyone ever see it in the front in either plans or OEM karts? One of the issues I've had is the inside wheel of a tight turn will sometimes buckle. The angle at the arm-rod joint is close...

I want to help, but I'd feel like I'm just taking the bait??

If I understand correctly, you're planning on building a subframe in the front that is not independent, and then implement steering as if it is a no suspension go-kart!!??

Thanks gents. When I was referring to issues how it reacted on a hill... It was climbing a hill. I was hoping that as the engine slowed down, the sheave would retract on the driver effectively gearing it down, but it didn't. If you approach the hill with speed in "high gear", that's seems to...

Would you say that is true for the chinese knockoff 40 series drivers as well? The driven hasn't given me any trouble, it seems to do what it is supposed to (also a chinese ebay purchase). If the actual comet brand driver will be that much superior, I could get it a go. This is a two seater...

I installed it in proper orientation for the red spring, part of the reason I built my own jackshaft... there are pics, and some videos here: https://www.diygokarts.com/community/threads/first-build-grand-daddy.46042/page-6

I'm sure I'm repeating what others have said, but, 1000 lbs should not be a problem for that engine or TC to move it at 5mph, IF your gearing is correct. The issue is more likely that you're having to run it right on the edge of converter engagement to go that slow, which is what is going to...

These chinese torque converters simply don't do the job well for me... I have two of them that have been run on the grand daddy kart with the predator 420cc. I've taken both apart more than once, cleaned and sprayed all moving parts with graphite, and they still like to bind and not retract...

Another check in folks. I ended up replacing the snapped solid aluminum axle with a 46" 0.25 wall chromoly unit (the aluminum was 45")... it is nicer, but on our first test ride out I already bent it. I tried to climb a steep trail I had no business climbing (30*, at least), and at the worst...

I used the same 1.25 solid axle. It worked fine for about a year, and took some abuse (a few rides on rough terrain with 400 lbs of adults), but it eventually did end up snapping right at the bearing. I ended up ordering a chromoly axle 46" .25 wall to replace it. I had other issues with the...

Don't ask too many questions before you start, or you'll talk yourself out of it. It is better to go in naive in some situations or you'll never do it. ...much like marriage.

Is it an old 440 out of a 70s raider sled? I've got one of those sitting on the shelf... Might end up in a kart

This is going to sound like some office bullshit bingo stuff, but here it is: The only way to eat the elephant is one bite at a time. It'll cost more than you think. Every car, engine, every motorcycle project, every hunting trip... They all cost more than I planned, how else would I talk...