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This is a great tutorial. In addition to a multi-meter, I would suggest picking up a 12V test light. You can work your way through the connections and harnesses with a test light to see where you're losing your hots or grounds. I've repaired a bunch of these machines this way.

Looks like that green wire from the accessory wiring is coming from the key switch. There should be a toggle switch at the dash for the headlights, make sure the wires connected to it are secure. Not much to the system, maybe a higher quality light would be better. Talk to these people...

Nice! Denny called it!

Okay. I see what you mean. He has the correct (wrongly drawn) diagram.

If only one side of the solenoid is hot, you're effectively bypassing the solenoid and going hot right into the starter. Sounds like a pinched wire somewhere. Two hot wires but one is grounding out and completing the circuit. There are two harnesses and they connect behind the front seat. One...

I would still make sure the wires in the key switch match the wires in the harness. When you plug them together red should match red, green should match green, etc. I would go over what wires you repaired and use the 6150/7150 Fun Kart diagram as your guide. Something is crossed or you have a...

I never said he has the wrong manual, I have the same manual downloaded from years ago, I said the UTV 200 Series wiring diagram isn't for his machine. One diagram is for the 200 Series UTV and the other is for the 6150/7150 Fun Kart. I don't think the 200 Series diagram is relevant. "I...

"The wiring diagram that you show is wrong I believe." Snaker, I think he has the correct wiring diagram. I wouldn't go by the 200 Series diagram myself, the 6150/7150 should be correct. They both use the same solenoid/relay however. For whatever reason the solenoid is getting energized unless...

Make sure any wires in the harness at the key switch aren't melted together and check the wiring at or near the starter.

Pick up a 12 volt test light and see if both solenoid terminals are hot. If so, the solenoid is getting power all the time which isn't good or the wiring going to the solenoid is closing the circuit intermittently. Only one side of the key switch should be hot. If both sides are hot you have...

Could be a voltage regulator or rectifier going bad. Check with a multi-meter.

Check your ground wires. One could be loose or corroded causing a voltage spike or drop off. Wiggle the connectors while they're on & see if they flicker. I've purchased these at Go Power Sports. I sold the karts I installed them on so I can't tell you how robust they are...

Here's the correct belt made in USA https://www.gokartmasters.com/premium-trailmaster-mid-xrs-mid-xrx-performance-go-kart-belt-made-in-usa/ Another option from a reputable seller...

Try this upgrade kit from Hammerhead Performance or give them a call https://hammerheadperformance.com/mudhead-performance-air-filter-adapter-upgrade-jet-for-youth-gokarts "will also fit your Trailmaster Mini and Mid model go karts"

Here's a "gasket sequence" video

https://www.colemanpowersportsusa.com/parts/go-kart-parts/bk200/bk200-k/engine-and-electrical

This SHOULD be the engine that shipped with your kart https://bdxperformance.com/products/yerf-dog-spiderbox-gy6-150cc-go-kart-engine-guaranteed-fit

This is the carb for that machine but it's out of stock. #1 in the illustration. https://www.colemanpowersportsusa.com/parts/go-kart-parts/bk200/bk200-k/engine-and-electrical Try this one...

Thanks for the update!

Unscrew the idle screw then remove the pilot jet under where the idle screw is. It's black with one or two o-rings. Spray some carb cleaner through the small hole going through the center of the jet along with a fine wire. If the pilot jet is restricted, the engine will surge.