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We got the bomb bay doors installed today! We hooked it up to the hydraulic mule and the hydraulics all checked out, so on the doors went! Still a few fasteners to add and connect the actuators, but they're back on! Getting closer to flying!

That is actually my plan! I plan to go to college, get my degree, then enlist as a pilot (I'm NOT signing the papers until the recruiter offers flight school!)

Well, hopefully we'll be taking Southern Cross to Normandy in 2024! Here's the link to donate if you can, it's going to be a huge deal getting a 70+ year old aircraft across the Atlantic twice. Any help is appreciated...

Ahhh now I just need to chase down some more nuts and a tap of the right size! Don't worry, it's not the stud, it's the block threads themselves. The studs go smooth in most of the holes except the problem one. Swapping them confirms it.

@karl ,@Flyinhillbilly , I'm putting together the Raptor with the parts you guys sent, but I've run into an issue. I'm installing the head studs, but I need to know what the thread pattern is on the threads. On the corner of the exhaust port, the stud gets stuck about 11 threads down. Visually...

question this monkey fest

In the end, it is more force being transmitted through the valvetrain, so like Denny said, you'll probably see some increased wear. Although keep in mind we're talking about hardened and precision machined engine parts, so they'll still last awhile if you take care of them.

Nah I was asking if the frame has any problems with twisting under high Gs/hard cornering.

:O that's an unusual looking kart, did you make it yourself? Do you have any problems with torsional stiffness?

Hahaaaa I wake up at 4:30 AM for religious seminary each morning, go to school till 3, ride the bus home, do chores, maybe a nap, Taekwondo black belt training for an hour or two until 9ish, then back to bed and restart. Saturdays I'm at the museum all day doing everything from washing the T-33...

Haha I am NOT suffering through wire formed clamps, those things SUCK in my experience. I'm going with screw worm clamps.

So I almost have everything in place to assemble the Raptor, except an intake piece. I have a 28mm PWK flatslide carburetor, which is what Flyinhillbilly used to run on this same engine. He was also kind enough to include the intake manifold. Now I have a problem, I don't have the hose thingy to...

I honestly don't get why people don't like them. I have had zero issues with mine, it far overperforms what I expected for the price.

Look at the Century FC-90. It's a sub brand of Lincoln Electric, and it's a very nicely built little welder. It's what I use, and even with 90 amps I have legitimately blown holes in my metal while practicing! Needless to say it's got some nice power. It's about $200 MSRP, more than the Harbor...

Yep EC is pretty goated, just an awesome company all around! :cheers2:

They work just fine for engine stuff! Click style wrenches are just more convenient is all, but as a whole beam style is more flexible, and I know the Craftsman one I mentioned clears a Briggs 5 HP crankcase. Can't speak for Predators though as I haven't torn one all the way down yet.

OHHH SNAP this'll be insane!

Try Craftsman 44690. 3/8" drive. It's what I use, and goes up to 75 ft/lbs. Great wrench!

Get yerself a nice Craftsman deflection-type torque wrench. With the specified 1/4" 12 point socket it clears the case with a little bit of room, but not much. Enough to work with though.

Well I always just do standard shipping soooo..... Yeah I'm just cheap. 🙃