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It really is. The vast majority of chain drive motorcycles have rubber mounted engines Chain drives do have a range of allowable misalignment. If you've misadjusted a machine to be setting right on the edge of derailing, then of course any tiny increase will derail. But a proper aligning will...

The snowmobile world has been using rubber engine mounts with their CVT's forever. While it does add some complexity, it certainly is doable. Hope this pdf shows up Page 5.37 shows two types of torque stops. They allow the engine to twist on the mounts to a point The left diagram shows the...

Very confusing thread. Different lingo being used, lot of sidetracking, hard to tell which pulley is being referred to at times. Here's my take on the various names I've heard used with these CVT's: Drive - Driven Driver - Driven Primary -...

Moving along and looking nice. That's some sturdy frame tubing, is the weight getting up there? I keep looking at the rear shock mounts and thinking that they're kind of hanging out there. Might add some gussets to the mounts similar to the gusset on the swingarm frame below?

You telling someone else not to be a jerk, now that's precious. You have been running people off of this forum as fast as they've shown up. And calling someone else a know-it-all. And coming from you, holy crap, the irony. These days, most modern diesels DO have control of the air intake. Grow up.

Your tie rods are somewhat longer than your suspension arms so you will get some bump steer. But it doesn't look crazy out of proportions. Is everything tight with no slop? Any toe in or toe out?

I guess you missed the bus again. I had a Yanmar with a wide open air intake. As in, there was no throttle control of the air intake. As in, the throttle controlled the fuel injection only Stay in school and say no to drugs there, chief.

Front suspension: Have to shown a series of photo's Rear suspension: That is some long extensions on the shock mounts. Lots of forces there. Might need to beef up that area. I had a Yanmar 2 cyl. It was older and it was also a wide open air intake design. Those things are subject to runaways...

What would give you reason to think it didn't just go bad on its own? The RR's are a fairly common breakdown These things are big heat producers. They have cooling fins just like a engine that need air contact to move off the heat. The base mounting is important as well, both for helping with...

Yeah, that's a different thing. That is part of the Torque Sensing function, a part of the driven pulley. Torque Sensing (TS) senses the load from the drive wheels. Torque = load so I'm going to call it load sensing because its easier to envision Think: Drive pulley is rpm sensing and driven...

What your describing here is a normal characteristic of CVT's, if I'm reading you right. These small engine CVT drive pulleys are rpm sensing. As long as they spin above clutch disengagement rpm's, they will stay engaged When you go down a hill and let off the throttle, you get ground drive...

This is hard to clarify. The Fun Kart diagram is for his machine, sure is. The 200 includes a brake interlock switch that the Fun Kart, or at least some Fun Karts don't have That is simply a additional switch added into the solenoid control circuit. What I'm saying is that the Fun Kart diagram...

The 200 series service manual IS the 6150/7150 manual. All three are listed on the same service manual. Owners manuals and parts manuals get separated out but there is only one service manual that covers all three. The manual PDF I dropped has two different wiring diagrams on adjoining pages...

Attempting to drop off a pdf This manual shows your diagram as well as the other style. Page 77? Take a look and compare

ALM has a awful lot of free info on their site, I suggest you gather up as much as you can while its available But one thing to keep in mind is that it isn't always accurate. The wiring diagram that you show is wrong I believe. The solenoid shows essentially a hot loop with the R going through...

Ah, yeah the carb is gummy inside already. But don't go turning the adjusters all out of wack If it was running good before where they are set, it will run good again at the same settings. Be sure to carefully note where any adjusters are BEFORE you start dismantling.

Comet makes a whole series of higher hp CVT's The specs show this engine to be 58 ft/lb torque but no hp Just doing a guesstimate, maybe hp range up to 10 +- of torque? Between 48 and 68 hp?

Wait a minute. The later photo looks like your splicing the blue into a larger red going to a large solenoid terminal? The blue should be going to the small red that does NOT go to a large terminal. Like in this photo And isn't the red #1 coming from the battery + terminal? Is the biggest red...

If I understand right. the blue wire replaces the small red wire at the solenoid and the small red wire is out of the picture. Don't know what it is connected to at the other end? Your diagram shows you getting battery power through fuse, main switch and start switch So, no small red wire from...

Yeah, it sounds right as described. The white jumper applies the 12v from the switch to both the relay control circuit and the relay switched input circuit. The small red, coming from the start switch, can go to either 85 or 30, chefs choice. the white jumper ties them together as one.