Full Suspension Big Block Mini-Buggy Build

SquidBonez

Active member
Messages
505
Reaction score
114
Location
New Jersey, USA
Been doing some test riding before I finally paint it to make sure there's no welding left to do. After throwing a chain I decided to add a storage bin to the side to bring extra chain/masterlinks/tools with me in case of a breakdown. But the biggest addition is a spring loaded adjustable chain tensioner.
20240328_181609.jpg
20240328_181619.jpg
Not only do I have the slots in the engine plate for adjustment, I now have this spring loaded tensioner to actively tighten the chain as it wears. The tensioner itself also has multiple spring/idler wheel positions to allow for different spring strengths/sprocket sizes. Obviously you still need to keep an eye on you chain, but this at least will take up the slack that happens between adjustments. Hopefully this prevents any future chain-related issues. And if not, I have my storage bin to hold my tools to make any on-the-go repairs.
 

Master Hack

Well-known member
Messages
2,012
Reaction score
3,230
Location
Mountain top Labratory
That will help a lot. What is the blue material? I made one outta 90D polyurethane, but it wore out quickly. Then i switched to an idler sprocket. End of problem. Don’t underestimate the required spring tension.
 

SquidBonez

Active member
Messages
505
Reaction score
114
Location
New Jersey, USA
That will help a lot. What is the blue material? I made one outta 90D polyurethane, but it wore out quickly. Then i switched to an idler sprocket. End of problem. Don’t underestimate the required spring tension.
Some sort of high density plastic. Got it off Amazon. As for the spring tension I believe it will be enough, but if not i have multiple holes to allow for different size/length/strength springs. Gonna try this one first because I had it on hand.
 

SquidBonez

Active member
Messages
505
Reaction score
114
Location
New Jersey, USA
Just working out the kinks before paint. Also got this set of tires (square setup rather than staggered). 19x7-8 all the way around. This allows me to rotate my tires and also gives a more neutral handling/eliminate understeer. Haven't tried them out yet but these tires will be better on the trail. Also they are a lot lighter than the old rear tires so they should free up a bit of power. 20240505_142034.jpg
20240505_185512.jpg
 
Last edited:

SquidBonez

Active member
Messages
505
Reaction score
114
Location
New Jersey, USA
Been having big issues with chain tension. The spring loaded tensioner seems to actually exacerbate the problem rather than help, so I've ditched it (still holding on to it in case it becomes useful later). I thought I may have had my chain set too tight, but that doesn't seem to be the issue.

The chain I'm using is D.I.D. #420 gold chain, but I'm thinking I need to go bigger. I could go to #428 chain, but I think I'm going to jump up to #530 motorcycle chain for extra peace of mind. I'd rather overdo it than underdo it. I may have to space out my pulleys to fit the larger sprocket, but it seems like it might work. While #530 sprockets are hard to find for go-kart applications, #50 industrial chain sprockets are the same exact size as #530 and are relatively common. Downside is now I have to remove my axle to do gearing swaps (had a split sprocket before) and I am back to relying on manual chain tensioning.

Now just waiting on parts...hopefully this fixes it. Has anyone else had issues with chain stretch with big block engines?
 

SquidBonez

Active member
Messages
505
Reaction score
114
Location
New Jersey, USA
Yep, had problems with #420 chain. Switched to #40H and solved that problem.
40H is substantaly stronger than 420. Same pitch so sprockets don't need changing.
#40 chain will fit pitch wise, but doesn't it have tons of side to side slack as it's wider than #420? Also apparently this D.I.D. gold chain has a higher tensile strength (4930lbs) than the #40H I could find (just above 4000lbs on average). Do you know where to find strong 40H chain?
 

Master Hack

Well-known member
Messages
2,012
Reaction score
3,230
Location
Mountain top Labratory

Denny

Canned Monster
Messages
8,562
Reaction score
4,807
Location
Mayberry, Indiana
40 is a little wider, but not a lot. Doubtful you could tell the difference at a quick glance.
l don't remember all the detail BS cuz i'm old and did this yesterday....
l had similar problems and talked to these guys and end of problem.
don't know if the difference is USA chain vs foreign, 40 vs 420 or what.

Are you jerking our chains, man?

I’ve waited years for the right time to use that!
 

TNThomas

Well-known member
Messages
389
Reaction score
371
Location
Washington
I think your chain tensioner should be mounted such that it applies tension on the top chain, not the bottom. The bottom chain should naturally have most of the slop picked up from the tension force of the jackshaft sprocket pulling on it. It's the top section that's just flopping around since it's essentially being "pushed" by the jacksfaft sprocket. One idea would be to mount some sort of bolt with a wheel on it in-between the links. That way you could fine tune the tension via threading in/out the bolt.

Check these folks out, tons of size options for chains/sprockets, this is who I went with.

 
Top