Other people’s scrap build

Thepartsguy

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Focusing on the bird manufacturing sprite in the middle. I got them for free from a neighbor. D787D8CB-1A1A-40C8-8B40-B13797168335.jpeg372D5E11-F6A2-4193-8163-515F68913A49.jpeg
 

Thepartsguy

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I had to remove the jack shaft brake to fit the 3.5hp h35 tecumseh.. By the way I have owned Two tecumsehs in my life and never wanna deal with these junkers again. 0A42B70F-E4C4-4B35-BCF7-2403FEB96D57.jpeg
 

Thepartsguy

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I managed to score some engines and two clutches with a massive length of #35 chain from another buddy down the road. I message this guy looking for a small part and he hooks me up with an abundance of awesome stuff for pennies on the dollar all the time. By the way that torque-o-verter double sprocket is on backwards.. we will address that soon. 84B51FBB-44FB-4599-AD9C-B58AEE7D3A21.jpeg
 

Thepartsguy

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Well I never did address that backwards sprocket yet. This was an early mock up. That clutch isn’t on that shaft for a reason. The reason? It is to small. That clutch situation will be solved with no money. 08FF8EBE-3D9B-4721-84E8-65DC1043DEA8.jpeg
 

Thepartsguy

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The guy who Basically gave me these tecumsehs sold me the kohler kart engine. The carb was laying in a box on the shelf. would you believe it it’s a direct bolt on with few mods. And the 8hp carb is definitely an upgrade. It starts first pull with absolutely no effort. But ya still had to add kohler parts to make the tecumseh even work. 6744508D-3B5C-4193-B4E1-AFC385EC9B28.jpeg
 

Thepartsguy

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So much to close on. It was hacked together in a week. I had to add everything that makes a mini bike a mini bike. Grips and throttle all the little things like that. The shaft was ground down with an angle grinder. Took about 45 minutes and then I tapped the clutch on and welded it. Now all that is left for me do do is flip the double sprocket and re-do the chains. I had to add that Briggs oil bath air filter to the kohler carb on the tecumseh for that original look. FB7BA2AF-BDA7-4485-8E4F-70822CBABDDB.jpegF6F021C6-0A14-42E5-BC65-FE4877EBD543.jpeg
 

Thepartsguy

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Great respect for even taking them on in the first place. Planning any resto on any of them, or just go 'til she blows?
the blue one needs a coil. It just doesn’t have spark. It’s actually a really solid mini bike nothing about it was to hacked really. I’m gonna keep that one. The one in the pictures is a beater just to thrash around on.7720902A-CF5F-48A7-AE4C-6446EA086127.jpeg
 

madprofessor

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When ordering that coil, take note of whether or not you're ordering a high-performance coil.
They only come into play at high ungoverned rpm, because they're not hi-perf due to a "hotter" spark, it's because they've had the internal resistors disabled so they don't retard the spark advance at those high rpm.
"Hotter" spark comes from the rare earth magnets in the billet racing flywheel you should have at those high ungoverned rpm.
(Note: You should also have a billet connecting rod at those high ungoverned rpm, simply because they sometimes break.)
 

Thepartsguy

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When ordering that coil, take note of whether or not you're ordering a high-performance coil.
They only come into play at high ungoverned rpm, because they're not hi-perf due to a "hotter" spark, it's because they've had the internal resistors disabled so they don't retard the spark advance at those high rpm.
"Hotter" spark comes from the rare earth magnets in the billet racing flywheel you should have at those high ungoverned rpm.
(Note: You should also have a billet connecting rod at those high ungoverned rpm, simply because they sometimes break.)
I should have said points/condenser but it’s all one unit attached to the coil. No high perf stuff unless you get into a points saver or nova 2 electronics of the sorts D29FF5FE-6CC1-44A9-9763-2C15E90D4014.jpeg
 

Thepartsguy

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That’s better. Now to find my bag of keys to replace the one the previous owner left out and tension the back chain and tighten the back tire.1FD3653F-9012-4D2B-ADE5-0B9309BCE14F.jpeg
 

madprofessor

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Wanted to mention I love that heavy slab of iron for a backplate, and that heavy solid core primary sprocket. Bulletproof stuff.
Must plead ignorance on that ignition stuff you have, no idea how that works on a small engine.
Did you notice the angle of the forks from the lower triple-tree to the axle? Are you going to straighten that head-on collision damage back out to factory appearance like the other bikes? I'm betting it would improve the handling.
 

Thepartsguy

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Wanted to mention I love that heavy slab of iron for a backplate, and that heavy solid core primary sprocket. Bulletproof stuff.
Must plead ignorance on that ignition stuff you have, no idea how that works on a small engine.
Did you notice the angle of the forks from the lower triple-tree to the axle? Are you going to straighten that head-on collision damage back out to factory appearance like the other bikes? I'm betting it would improve the handling.
I actually never noticed the front was bent. It doesn’t really mess with the way it handles. Also the previous owner left the key out of the solid primary sprocket and relied on the nut to tension it and not let it slip. So I’m glad I pulled the whole assembly down anyway. I cut the head off a bolt and filed it square into a perfect key. So that’s one less thing to worry about.
 

Thepartsguy

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With the gear reduction gears setup correctly it’s now an absolute torque monster.
 

Thepartsguy

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Wanted to mention I love that heavy slab of iron for a backplate, and that heavy solid core primary sprocket. Bulletproof stuff.
Must plead ignorance on that ignition stuff you have, no idea how that works on a small engine.
Did you notice the angle of the forks from the lower triple-tree to the axle? Are you going to straighten that head-on collision damage back out to factory appearance like the other bikes? I'm betting it would improve the handling.
Looking at other fox sprites every one has that bend. Even restored ones so I think that was the way the bars were intended.219625BE-B7B6-4BB7-A157-14298BE4AFF6.jpeg
 

madprofessor

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every one has that bend. Even restored ones so I think that was the way the bars were intended.
????? The bars (handlebars) aren't what I was seeing, no telling how they originally might be fashioned to be appealing to buyers.
Think of the front end as 3 sections centered on the upper and lower triple-trees. From the upper tree on up is the handlebars. Between the trees is the pivot bolt. From the lower tree on down is the forks. It's the forks I'm saying are bent, right at the lower tree, what happens when you run the front wheel into a wall.
The green bike above has forks that remain in a nice straight line from the axle up through both triple-trees. The only bend is for the handlebars, right at the upper tree.
The blue bike's forks bend backwards from right at the lower tree, in addition to the factory bend for the handlebars right at the upper tree. Your other 2 bikes have forks that are straight all the way to the upper tree, the only bend being the factory bend for the handlebars right at the upper tree. Compare them to the blue one, you'll see it.
 

stroc1

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MINIBIKE frame $50 $100 torque converter Honda GX 160 off air compressor 46 mph
 
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