212 hemi hard to pull and kickba ck

[Noah Rad]

Hi I've had my predator 212 for quite some time, I bought it off some guy on Facebook marketplace place, I know he moded it but not sure what he did exactly but it has always had a terrible kick back for example if I use the original flywheel key way it will almost instantly rip the cord out of my hand, I checked the cam to make sure it didn't skip a tooth which it didn't so recently I adjusted the flywheel and retarded it probably 30 to 40 degrees as shown it the picture, the black dot on the end of the shaft is for something else. And the dot on the inside of the shaft is the key way, Anyways I really don't understand why I have to retard it so much In order to work, so I figured something was wrong and put it back to normal setting and went to my valve set up, I set my valve lash to 0 or maybe slightly past 0 like -.001 for exhuast and am not entirely sure if that ok or if it will burn a valve, but with this lash I can at least turn the motor over by hand while still feeling some compression. If anybody knows why my motor is so dumb please tell me thanks I'm getting frustrated.

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

Maybe the PO screwed up the compression release

 

[Noah Rad]

What's the PO?

 

[BaconBitRacing]

Previous owner.

What's the PO?

 

[Rat]

Maybe the PO screwed up the compression release

That would be my guess, weld and grind cam, cooked the spring.

Hi I've had my predator 212 for quite some time, I bought it off some guy on Facebook marketplace place, I know he moded it but not sure what he did exactly but it has always had a terrible kick back for example if I use the original flywheel key way it will almost instantly rip the cord out of my hand, I checked the cam to make sure it didn't skip a tooth which it didn't

Did you see any of this on it?
The red arrow is the comp release spring that holds it in lift until running (or spinning more than 500rpm) and the green arrow is the actual compression relief which nudges the exhaust valve open during start up.

 

[Noah Rad]

Yeah last time I opened it up the compression released seemed to work, some people say that 0 lash is normal, is that correct cause if that's the case then my engine is fine but I've also seen many people say engine should have some lash so I'm really confused

 

[Rat]

Yeah last time I opened it up the compression released seemed to work, some people say that 0 lash is normal, is that correct cause if that's the case then my engine is fine but I've also seen many people say engine should have some lash so I'm really confused

I use zero lash on all mine... basically my lash is as tight as it can be set with my fingers then checked with a wiggle to make sure there no binding load on the tappet before locking it and checking to make sure it didn't tighten any.

I do know that setting the lash can cause issues BECAUSE of the comp relief, that's why I set my valve lash with the opposing one wide open instead of fiddling with it trying to figure out if it's the correct stroke, or if the relief is lifting F★★K all that piddly nonsense

 

[Rat]

I'm wondering if it's maybe a lash cap or pushrod length issue?

compression relief only works if the valvetrain is right. You can set the "correct" lash all you want but if there's supposed to be a lash cap or the rod is too short (ANY Hemi uses a shorter rod than ANY non Hemi) then you won't get the right amount of valve lift.

Spring retainers meant for lash caps look different than those that are not, and stock my 208 had a cap on the exhaust valve only

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Yeah last time I opened it up the compression released seemed to work, some people say that 0 lash is normal, is that correct cause if that's the case then my engine is fine but I've also seen many people say engine should have some lash so I'm really confused

These engines add lash as engine gets hotter.

So if you set it at 0 cold, after it's get up to temp, the lash becomes .002"-.003".

I set all mine at .003" cold. They work perfectly fine.

When setting lash, make sure you set em after the compression release bump on the exhaust.

The best way I have found, is watch the exhaust rocker bump open very small, then close again. After that, look at the keyway on the pto side ( clutch side), turn the flywheel clockwise till the key way is line up with the cylinder, then set lash for both valves.

This way alway works and makes sure you are passed the compression release.

If you set lash before the compression bump, they are always hard to pull and breaks ropes.

If you need pics of the keyway and cylinder alignment, jus ask.

I got go back out to shop later anyway.

 

[Denny]

Previous owner.

Could also be Post Office, Purchase Order or even Purple Octopus!

 

[Noah Rad]

I'm wondering if it's maybe a lash cap or pushrod length issue?

compression relief only works if the valvetrain is right. You can set the "correct" lash all you want but if there's supposed to be a lash cap or the rod is too short (ANY Hemi uses a shorter rod than ANY non Hemi) then you won't get the right amount of valve lift.

Spring retainers meant for lash caps look different than those that are not, and stock my 208 had a cap on the exhaust valve only

I know that I have both of my valve lash caps as I mentioned before I don't know what previous owner did to the motor so possibly he did put different push rods in it but I don't know, I might just try running my motor on zero lash for a while then maybe in the future I'll try to look deeper into it, but most responses I've heard say that it's fine. We'll see tho

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

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