DNF - Sweet Pea's Buggy

Status
Not open for further replies.

vw_buggsy

New member
Messages
12
Reaction score
0
Location
Maryland
Okay, I want to build a go kart for my kid, as described in my intro post:

http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=40101

I am hoping to get it done by Christmas, though if not her birthday is in March. Anyway, I figure I might as well enter the build off then! So here is my entry. Please let me know if I did/do anything wrong.

Her nickname around the house is Sweet Pea, so we'll call it "Sweet Pea's Buggy" for now.
•MERGED•
First thing I've been working on is planning, and figuring out what length of axle to order as described in this thread:
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?p=509613

Hopefully sub-threading is allowed because I figure if I have specific questions I'll post those as threads in the topic forums, then update progress on the build here. That should let people click down if they are interested.

Best,
Buggsy
•MERGED•
Well, I ordered all the "make it go" parts for the rear.

I went with Go Power Sports. They had the kit with all the components that I liked, another mini-kit that included chain and the clutch for the motor, free shipping, and the 10% forum member discount. All together the total is just over $260, and that ain't bad.


10T,#41, 3/4" bore, Centrifugal Clutch and Chain Kit $37.95 USD

Live Axle Kit - Complete 38" Axle -
(Add Axle Bearing Kit: 4 - 3 hole flanges & 2 hanger plates for [$13.95]) KDLAKIT 1 $252.95 USD

Subtotal: $290.90 USD
Coupon Code (DIYGOKARTS): -$29.10 USD
Shipping: $0.00 USD
Grand Total: $261.80 USD

I already have a cheap 6.5hp Honda clone motor from harbor freight that I intend to use.

I was planning to use the front spindles from the donor Manco kart but they are only 3.5" in length total. Most of the standard wheel sizes they sell need at least a 4.5" spindle... so that's out.

So I'll have to decide if I want to re-use the Manco front wheels (I really don't since they won't look in the same style as the rears) or start looking around for either front wheels that will fit or new wheel/spindle combos.

Best,
Buggsy
 

Attachments

  • 2018_buildoff_entry.jpg
    2018_buildoff_entry.jpg
    684.9 KB · Views: 9
Last edited by a moderator:

vw_buggsy

New member
Messages
12
Reaction score
0
Location
Maryland
Since last post:
Got my welding tanks filled.

Went up to the "Metal Supermarket" and got 18' of 1" round 1/16" wall tubing & 2'X4' of aluminum diamond plate to use as the floor pan (guy gave me a decent deal on the latter but, metal is expensive right now).

Prepped frame with wire brush, an acid wash, de-greaser. Painted frame with Bloxide weld through primer, just to keep it from rusting as I'm doing all the welding and stuff on it.

Carefully lined up then welded on the axle hangers. That alone took a lot of time since, for me anyway, it's a measure 100 times then tack weld kind of operation. Then measure 50 more times then finish weld. I used flux core for these welds because it tends to penetrate better and the hangers are pretty thick for my small Lincoln "Handy-Mig" welder. I also pre-heated. The welds turned out okay, not my best but I'm confident in them.

I started sizing things up for the engine, it's going to be tight fit under the body but I think it will work out. I might have to remove the attached fuel tank and put one somewhere else.

Best,
Buggsy
 

Attachments

  • DSCN2482.JPG
    DSCN2482.JPG
    539.1 KB · Views: 5
  • DSCN2484.JPG
    DSCN2484.JPG
    467.8 KB · Views: 10
  • DSCN2485.JPG
    DSCN2485.JPG
    484.4 KB · Views: 9

Functional Artist

Well-known member
Messages
4,420
Reaction score
1,705
Location
Toledo, Ohio
Do you really need to "seal up" your metal before/while fabricating?

Is it real humid or damp in your area?

Yup, if ya don't double, triple & even sometimes quadruple check...Murphys Law can/will bite you in the butt :ack2:

I must say, "them's some beautiful welds" :cheers2:

Keep up the good work. :thumbsup:
 

vw_buggsy

New member
Messages
12
Reaction score
0
Location
Maryland
Do you really need to "seal up" your metal before/while fabricating?

Is it real humid or damp in your area?

Yup, if ya don't double, triple & even sometimes quadruple check...Murphys Law can/will bite you in the butt :ack2:

I must say, "them's some beautiful welds" :cheers2:

Keep up the good work. :thumbsup:

I live in Maryland on the east coast, it can get humid but no I probably don't need to. I just assume that at any time I might have to set it aside for a little while, or put it outside for a night. Anyway the weld through primer gives it some rust protection in the welded areas that I might not be able to get paint into later, like between pieces, and the primer supposedly actually aids penetration in the weld.

Thanks for the ups on the welding, I'm self taught. Ill have to take some picks of the crummy ones though just for honesty. They don't all turn out great. Least night I had some wicked burn through on the tubing I was welding because I had gotten used to running the welder all out on the thicker stuff!

Thanks for the kind comments!
 

vw_buggsy

New member
Messages
12
Reaction score
0
Location
Maryland
Progress has been made.

Engine mount is welded in.

I took the front spindles from the Manco donor, cut off the axles, and welded on longer grade 8 axles to accommodate the new wheels while also putting in KPI (10 degrees).

Those are now welded to the tube frame. There is a lot of flex from the leverage they put on that area so some reinforcement is definitely called for, but I rather expected that.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN2486.JPG
    DSCN2486.JPG
    457.5 KB · Views: 7
  • DSCN2487.JPG
    DSCN2487.JPG
    491.8 KB · Views: 6
  • DSCN2490.JPG
    DSCN2490.JPG
    484.7 KB · Views: 7
  • DSCN2492.JPG
    DSCN2492.JPG
    469 KB · Views: 8
  • DSCN2494.JPG
    DSCN2494.JPG
    468.3 KB · Views: 13
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top