Speedster
Active member
I found this video a couple days ago, I thought I'd share it. Skip to about 3 minutes for the action. Clutch Video LinkHe'll learn it the hard way when that Hilliard turns red hot
I found this video a couple days ago, I thought I'd share it. Skip to about 3 minutes for the action. Clutch Video LinkHe'll learn it the hard way when that Hilliard turns red hot
Thanks! I think I will go with those then. And I'll just replace the tires when they wear out. It shouldn't be too big of a problem anyways, because I will mainly be driving it on a dirt road. Most of the time, it is a really nice and packed hard. And just as it is getting almost like pavement, and all the little rocks have either been pushed down into the dirt or blown off the road, along comes the county dude in in his grader, even though the road totally doesn't need it. I think he just gets bored.Yes, yes they would. But will wear fast on the street. See, teach a man to fish and his worm is always in the water then!
It blew my mind that the springs and assembly held out long enough to continue applying pressure all the way until the housing turned liquid.The 4x4” hubs are out there. Just continue the search. See why we don’t preach centrifugal clutches.
I am not saying that since it held up, I'm gonna get one! Obviously, it failed. Come to think of it, I guess any torque convertor/clutch would have failed if attached to a diesel and held stationary. Still, I wanna use a 40 series like you guys have recommended. I saw some tests that were torque convertor vs. clutch, and the convertor gave the kart SO much more torque. I just can't get over the price jump from a 30 series. (from $60 to $200) I know it is worth it, though. Where do yo guys get your comet belts?But it was not locking up to pull a load.
That's what I wanted them for, front wheels. I'll be using golf cart wheels for the back.Only as front wheels
Not a fan of the 3 lug hubs and wheels but they will work. In fact all of it will work except for the rear axle. It needs to have a longer step down for the hubs.
Thanks! What length of step-down should I go with? Or what difference should I look for in the hubs?Same axle on BMI with hardware is ~$20 cheaper.
Ok thanks! I'll check them out.The length of step down does matter. It has to be long enough to accommodate the hubs and a washer and nut. BMI has probably the best deals on axles and spindles and hubs.
You don’t need brakesGeez! I just realized my plans and parts don't include anything for braking!
No, I know I don't. You are correct. That is, 'till I come flying around a curve doing 40 and see the grader 15 feet in front of me. My obituary: "He was a person who worked on and loved machines all his life. Little did he know one would be the cause of his death, but if he had known, we are sure he would have chosen no other way to go. However, we all agree it would have been nice if it could have come at least 40 years later."You don’t need brakes