TL50cc old mini four wheeler

[Abe]

I bought this recently and it started up and died so I cleaned out the carb and you know the usual stuff when I try to start is up it was hard then that next morning I try to start it and I didn’t start when I checked the spark plug there was nothing I bought a new ignition coil and still didn’t work

 

[Hellion]

Got pics? I've got a TL50 too but it's a Honda and it has two wheels...

I doubt it's the coil or plug (after all you replaced it), sounds like it could be the kill switch circuit (killing the spark) or the ignition is grounded out somewhere (wiring issue, basically). An inline spark plug tester is a great tool to have.

 

[Denny]

Could even be a corroded connector or switch.

 

[Abe]

It’s a Suzuki I don’t have any pictures I can get some tomorrow

 

[Abe]

I got this picture

 

[Rat]

Got pics? I've got a TL50 too but it's a Honda and it has two wheels...

I doubt it's the coil or plug (after all you replaced it), sounds like it could be the kill switch circuit (killing the spark) or the ignition is grounded out somewhere (wiring issue, basically). An inline spark plug tester is a great tool to have.

A pair of pliers and a bare stud to lean the plug on for ground when dealing with a painted engine has worked fine for over a century as a spark test.
why would any skilled soul waste money on some fancy thing they might use once?

 

[Rat]

I bought this recently and it started up and died so I cleaned out the carb and you know the usual stuff when I try to start is up it was hard then that next morning I try to start it and I didn’t start when I checked the spark plug there was nothing I bought a new ignition coil and still didn’t work

If you have a Multimeter, check the kill switch for continuity in both the on and off positions at the coil connection (one probe in the connector other in a bare metal ground), or just see if it will start with the kill disconnected.

It's all to common for the push button kills to deform inside and keep the ignition permanently grounded...there's also a possibility there was a short in the wires and fried the CDI when you started it the first time.

 

[Abe]

The fourwheeler wires are disconnected from the kill switch so the wires are just from the motor to the ignition coil to a split into the wires that would go into the kill switch and the other wire goes to the spark plug

 

[Rat]

The fourwheeler wires are disconnected from the kill switch so the wires are just from the motor to the ignition coil to a split into the wires that would go into the kill switch and the other wire goes to the spark plug

I'm not sure there's a bench test for a CDI essentially you replace it and the problem is solved, or still there and ruled out with a spare part for when it is needed

 

[Hellion]

A pair of pliers and a bare stud to lean the plug on for ground when dealing with a painted engine has worked fine for over a century as a spark test.
why would any skilled soul waste money on some fancy thing they might use once?

Sorry man didn't mean to upset you, it was just a suggestion not a demand. It's far from fancy, it's a cheap gizmo from HF and you don't need to touch anything to anything or risk a shock. It works, positively with a secure connection.

 

[Rat]

Sorry man didn't mean to upset you, it was just a suggestion not a demand. It's far from fancy, it's a cheap gizmo from HF and you don't need to touch anything to anything or risk a shock. It works, positively with a secure connection.

You didn't upset me I'm as blunt as a brick and direct.

 

[Abe]

Okay I do not see a CDI it’s a really simple machine would it have one? Or is it in the engine out of sight? Or am I completely missing it?

 

[Rat]

Okay I do not see a CDI it’s a really simple machine would it have one? Or is it in the engine out of sight? Or am I completely missing it?

If it was completely missing it would not have started at all.

There's only 3 types of ignition that thing could have and the most probable 2 are CDI, points and condenser. The least probable but still possible would be direct induction like a kart engine.

Seems to me you need to check the flywheel and stator out to see if maybe it snagged and severed a loose wire

 

[Abe]

I started taking the motor apart last night so just need to get the magneto cover off? I’m pretty sure that it but the engine uses Phillips screws to keep it together and they are a pain because they strip

 

[Rat]

I started taking the motor apart last night so just need to get the magneto cover off? I’m pretty sure that it but the engine uses Phillips screws to keep it together and they are a pain because they strip

I prefer replacing all of those with either hex (allen) or flanged bolts after getting them all out.
If you had the exact year I could find you an exact wiring schematic and possibly parts manual of some form.

Another thing to check is that the HT is making good contact between the coil and cap...thread ins are nice but often are a pain for pulling loose especially with crusty old HT's

I did what looking I could on the machine in general without a year of reference and it seems the CDI is integrated as part of the coil so it is more likely a problem with the signal pickup, stator, or the wires between everything.

Apparently those have a dual kill... look some sort of pull string under the rear of the seat and make sure it's disconnected or missing entirely. It is a normally open contact switch so the wires being spliced together will ground the ignition out... don't do that lol.

 

[Abe]

Is that the contact switch you talking about and that what it looks like inside

 

[Rat]

Is that the contact switch you talking about and that what it looks like inside

Well you've got 4 magnets, 1 ignition winding, 0 lighting coil...what's at the other end of that wire coming if the stator coil?

More pics

 

[Abe]

The wire I think that connects to the ignition coil

 

[Rat]

The wire I think that connects to the ignition coil

Well that makes sense with the CDI being integrated as part of the physical coil, but generally there's some sort of triggering pickup and a bump on the flywheel for it to read the timing position from. I'm not going to pretend to know that specific machine as well as I know others.

I do know that while it is somewhat rare, it is possible you bought a dud coil... is the new one identical to the old at least?

You got it to start briefly before losing spark so it's going to be an electrical issue of some kind somewhere... a bad connector, bad wire (broken inside the insulation) melted wire shorted out, dud replacement coil, dead resistor (if the spark cap is a resistor type)

 

[Rat]

This site should help you immensely. After digging in a bit more... an LT50 is an LT50, year don't mean squat.

You should be able to rebuild the whole machine from A$$ to grass with this