Denny
Canned Monster
Look at the parts list you supplied, it says you should have a 20 series CVT on there. If you are mixing a centrifugal clutch with a 20 series driven it will never work! Where’s JimD when we need him?
Expert Help Needed
- Thread starter Goldwinger
- Start date
Goldwinger
New member
Ouch! I’ve been using what was on the kart when I bought it. Found this on Amazon. Is this what I should be looking for? I am open to suggestions.
Comet 219559 20 Series Driver 3/4 4 Cycle
- Replaces the TC-88 series, uses 3/4in W belt for increased torque capacity
- Symmetric-type system for fits Mini-bikes, karts, etc.
- Uses standard 26 degree 3/4in wide belts
- For 3 to 8 hp 2-cycle or 4-cycle engines
Rat
Well-known member
What is on it should work fine, don't let yourself be confused by know nothing newbs that don't read before attempting to give their 0.02 of stupidity.
1. Is the clutch that's on the kart New, or has it been repainted
2. Stalling in the air with brake applied or when the wheels touch down indicates a clutch function issue.
Either the clutch is old and the springs don't hold the flyweights in, or the clutch is New (or old) and something is binding up making the clutch act engaged.
When the kart is on stands running, does the tire turn? If yes, then it's again a clutch lock up problem.
Personally as much of a total PITA as it would be, I'd knock the weights out, clean them, clip a couple coils off the spring(s) rebook them and see if that helps. If it helps than it's time for a new clutch because it won't take long for the freshly shortened springs to act up again.
Goldwinger
New member
Weekend Update: Out with the old, in with the new. I replaced the clutch that was on the kart with a new one. Same type of belt clutch. Problem solved. The kart rips like it's brand new. Thanks for all of the help, especially Rat.
JimD
Well-known member
Belt is too loose, it also should be a BX belt and not a B or 5L belt. You need the cogs in the belt when you turn the tight radius of the pulley sheaves on the clutch. Carter Brothers had very good luck with that set up. It worked just needs to change some things. Would be nice to know at what rpm that clutches engages at and at what rpm the engine idles at. 200 rpm difference is what you should shoot for if idle is 1,800 +/- 200 rpm then the clutch should grab at 2,000 to 2,100.
Still trying to figure out why all the nuts on the bolt holding on the clutch? They do sell the collect length bolts to start with in most good hardware stores 5/16-24 - 3/4" or 1".
Still trying to figure out why all the nuts on the bolt holding on the clutch? They do sell the collect length bolts to start with in most good hardware stores 5/16-24 - 3/4" or 1".
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JimD
Well-known member
Just looked up the clutch we use to sell Carter and it had a ball bearing in it not the normal bushing because few people to maintenance on a fun kart when they first buy it they drive the wheels off of it. The clutch was 2 pieces because the ball bearing was on the crankshaft not on the sleeve of the clutch. It was a custom clutch just for them and we haven't made them since 2005. I couldn't even give you a good suggestion on what to do. I see you don't use the same motor mount slots in the engine plate though the engines have the same footprint.
Rat
Well-known member
Guess you missed the part where his problem has been solved already