Engine suggestions

BrownStainRacing

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My tach came in, I bought whichever one had the fastest shipping on amazon (got impatient lol)


However, my one wheel drive rim broke, so I won't be doing much to the engine till I get that figured out
Is this the replacement???
Might have to change sprocket and brake drum.

I forgot I had it. I don't have much for 1 wheel peel karts.
 

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BrownStainRacing

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Yeah, I think it's that.

I don't know how I'm going to get the chain aligned though. The original one just used nuts to space the sprocket and brake.
Use nuts again to line it up.

You need a gear change anyway.

So look for a smaller sprocket with same bolt pattern.

GPS, OMB, BMI, might have something for you.

I would help, but I'm replacing a t/c kit right now.
 

BrownStainRacing

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With you weight, maybe a 48 or 50 is where I would start.
Really hard to tell without knowing what rpm you had with the 60t/12t.

40/12= 3.33:1
48/12= 4:1
50/12= 4.16:1
 

BrownStainRacing

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I'm assuming down to 40 teeth from 60?
I'm not having any luck finding a smaller sprocket to fit a 2 7/8" bolt pattern for this wheel.

You could ask in the wanted section. Somebody might have your exact wheel laying around.

I know changing tires on split wheels are alot easier then a 1 piece wheel.

You might end up with this wheel tire combo and another 60t.
You could change gear ratio by changing clutch tooth count also.

@JimD Would know more then me on this, but i think SOME max torque drums, you can change jus the sprocket, and not have to buy a whole new clutch to change gear ratios.

It's been years since I was into performance builds that used clutches, but I think with the 13t sprocket, for #35 chain clutch drum, you could jus buy the sprockets up to 19t. But I'm not 100% sure on that these days.

Hopefully @JimD Will see this and help out.

Lmk what you find out, and I'll do the same.

Post a pic of that tach you got.

 

BrownStainRacing

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Here’s the tach, it’s probably a piece of junk but it had one day shipping
Boy I tell ya......I can crap a better tach then that, 😆 🤣 😂 😹 😆

It works, I use them on my antique boat motors.
It's got a bad delay and will throw you off when tuning.
Its hard to get a read on a certain distance.
It's fine, once it get caught up with itself.

The other 1 I sent you has a temp gauge, max rpm recall, max rpm alarm, max temp alarm, hr meters and much better for tuning.

Temp is part of tuning.
Too cool will cause a power loss. Too hot will cook the engine.

Any luck on your wheel???

Might wanna check the old mini bike forum, they into old karts too.

 

Chiron TL-34

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Boy I tell ya......I can crap a better tach then that, 😆 🤣 😂 😹 😆

It works, I use them on my antique boat motors.
It's got a bad delay and will throw you off when tuning.
Its hard to get a read on a certain distance.
It's fine, once it get caught up with itself.

The other 1 I sent you has a temp gauge, max rpm recall, max rpm alarm, max temp alarm, hr meters and much better for tuning.

Temp is part of tuning.
Too cool will cause a power loss. Too hot will cook the engine.

Any luck on your wheel???

Might wanna check the old mini bike forum, they into old karts too.

I used the other rim and its rather rigged right now. I guess I shall see how much longer I can go before I have literally no other option but to buy new wheels. I was gonna buy that wheel you linked plus the other side (floater wheel) but once I saw the total at 106 without a sprocket or brake, I changed my mind on rigging the original one rather quickly. When I say rigged, I mean all but one finger in the grave. Its so about to be completely toast.

Tach says I'm hitting 4700 at full throttle. I think thats way over the actual RPM though, no way its going that high with the governor. Maybe I'll have to mess around with the windings around the spark plug a lil bit.
 
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Chiron TL-34

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I used the other rim and its rather rigged right now. I guess I shall see how much longer I can go before I have literally no other option but to buy new wheels. I was gonna buy that wheel you linked plus the other side (floater wheel) but once I saw the total at 106 without a sprocket or brake, I changed my mind on rigging the original one rather quickly. When I say rigged, I mean all but one finger in the grave. Its so about to be completely toast.
I got the one from Go Power Sports, I was so tired of that garbage Manco rim. I also got a brake for it, all thats left is for me to either drill out holes in my sprocket or just buy a whole new one.
 

BrownStainRacing

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I used the other rim and its rather rigged right now. I guess I shall see how much longer I can go before I have literally no other option but to buy new wheels. I was gonna buy that wheel you linked plus the other side (floater wheel) but once I saw the total at 106 without a sprocket or brake, I changed my mind on rigging the original one rather quickly. When I say rigged, I mean all but one finger in the grave. Its so about to be completely toast.

Tach says I'm hitting 4700 at full throttle. I think thats way over the actual RPM though, no way its going that high with the governor. Maybe I'll have to mess around with the windings around the spark plug a lil bit.
4700 sounds about right for a box pred 212, once you move that gov spring over.


The Ducar 212 comes governored at 5300 rpm outta the box.

Tilly 212r mk2 comes governored at 5800 rpm outta the box.

They both come with better flywheels, no stock glued on magnets to come loose on these flywheels.


 
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Chiron TL-34

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I got the one from Go Power Sports, I was so tired of that garbage Manco rim. I also got a brake for it, all thats left is for me to either drill out holes in my sprocket or just buy a whole new one.
I drilled out my sprocket and good news, it works flawlessly. My other back wheel (I think its called a floater wheel) wobbles like nuts, so still gotta buy that. I'm still so curious as to if my crankshaft key is cut right for the proper ignition timing, but I canceled the degree wheel a while back and spent the money elsewhere. My birthday is on the first of October, so I'll have some more money for stuff like that then.
 

Chiron TL-34

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4700 sounds about right for a box pred 212, once you move that gov spring over.


The Ducar 212 comes governored at 5300 rpm outta the box.

Tilly 212r mk2 comes governored at 5800 rpm outta the box.

They both come with better flywheels, no stock glued on magnets to come loose on these flywheels.


I'm fully satisfied with the RPM I'm hitting now, but after looking at those engines you listed, I looked up the GHOST and saw its governed at 6000. It has a "Squeeze cast, T-6 heat treated aluminum rod", is that anything like this? Like I said, I like my engine right now, I would prefer a little less teeth on that sprocket because it makes soo much torque, but I like the engine. I was considering buying a live axle frame off of facebook marketplace if a good deal ever arises, and was wondering if you think that rod will work to soup up my engine even more. (If I got a live axle, I dont really see the point in making a one wheel peel insanely powerful)
 

Chiron TL-34

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The Ducar 212 comes governored at 5300 rpm outta the box.

They both come with better flywheels, no stock glued on magnets to come loose on these flywheels.

Is that the same PVL flywheel that I have? (The one you linked from diyperformance)
 

BrownStainRacing

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I'm fully satisfied with the RPM I'm hitting now, but after looking at those engines you listed, I looked up the GHOST and saw its governed at 6000. It has a "Squeeze cast, T-6 heat treated aluminum rod", is that anything like this? Like I said, I like my engine right now, I would prefer a little less teeth on that sprocket because it makes soo much torque, but I like the engine. I was considering buying a live axle frame off of facebook marketplace if a good deal ever arises, and was wondering if you think that rod will work to soup up my engine even more. (If I got a live axle, I dont really see the point in making a one wheel peel insanely powerful)
Your rod is fine to 5300.
You got a lil ways to go to get to there.

A 1 wheel peel is really for youngsters to learn the basics on.

You got more then enough power for that now.

Keep your eyes out for a live axle kart, they're hit and miss around here.
 

Chiron TL-34

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Your rod is fine to 5300.
You got a lil ways to go to get to there.

A 1 wheel peel is really for youngsters to learn the basics on.

You got more then enough power for that now.

Keep your eyes out for a live axle kart, they're hit and miss around here.
 

BrownStainRacing

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Yeap, same. Except your fits the pred 212 hemi crank taper.

And the Ducar PVL fits Ducar, tilly, honda gx200, gx160, clone 196 and 168, and the pred 212 non hemi.

I use the pvl more then any other flywheel.
 

Thepartsguy

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I dont really see the point in making a one wheel peel insanely powerful)
A 1 wheel peel is really for youngsters to learn the basics on.
high Rpm insanity you know we would just stomp the pedal and wait for it to blow up but it never did. So it was easy to win races with because you just never had to let off. Open wheel rocked! You could turn so easily I miss that.51BBE1F0-E25E-4541-959E-E37CA47A66CF.png
 
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