Sequoia Electrathon Racer

[Functional Artist]

There seems to be a discrepancy between the measurement called out (1.37) and what you measured (1.392).
Assuming the odd ball bearing fit (34.925MM) the measurement must be closer to 35 MM (1.378).
What I'm getting at is, The common kart front wheel bearing (99502H) is .625 X 1.375 (5/8 x 1 3/8).
Another alternative is a 6202 -10 (5/8 x 35MM)
One might fit better (OD) than the other....
Yeah its only .003 but loose is no bueno.

Hey T,

Probably my measurement skills. I guess, I need more practice

Speaking of discrepancies, when I Googled the 99502H I found
99502H NR - Radial Ball Bearing with Snap Ring (10 pieces) (~$23.00)
(16 mm x 35 mm x 11 mm with SNAP RING)
(5/8" x 1-3/8" x 7/16" with snap ring)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2715678288...044&customid=c8af45d18a401a62480a20afe96d31f4

& I also found

Go Kart seal bearing Snap Ring bearings 99502H NR 5/8 X 1-3/8 (10 pieces) (~$19.00)

D (Outside)​	34.925 mm​
d (Inside) Bore​	15.875 mm​
B (Width)​	11 mm​

https://www.ebay.com/itm/133501105221?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D258373%26meid%3De891f0414e3a41eba68fc82d53d0a78b%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D271567828848%26itm%3D133501105221%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D4429486%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLambda85KnnRecallV1V2V4ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRankerAndBertRecallWithVMEV3CPCAuto%26brand%3DJSB&_trksid=p4429486.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A133501105221e891f0414e3a41eba68fc82d53d0a78b%7Cenc%3AAQAIAAABUObhgc4Nk8%252BdtAwOww4FKLaj%252FQ5qqgDlQCuqZA43WcPFUWDERCUugbbOk7XQv0JXlBfqCg2xKF3WcPghxGMFw2oSlXvfExEaMYr7I7LmrHcP6czY1wIMt0ORyKiCWt95xldincyyBx3g%252BNDW%252B%252FhWUgTaBhK6xAm%252BJIbCOMehu
%252BdwgqvPWYUaZsVvEChsC5iN7aH42t9t6m7pqFbm7YB0QWI%252BHfUEVpiv5TVj4qz%252B6bslgPe3gS0BJgTHK%252Byv8g9y8t2EGR3%252F3jvPUtN%252BFd4PUBA6YuV5MhiNBGRqfuVsrw%252F6H9W1OHkKVP9R3%252B%252Ffo%252FfGylxZxtBWtrIqMCr4HISKbpdVpUhVBpFafOZO
62s3rKxcGuSdJBRWucLLNztOqziSAOfgPpQLNjLnwdZHNrEbQlqDd2fO6DsdGFT6x%252F%252F6eI2ZcK5ulnNVbEKVN28wnkH%252FSA%253D%2
53D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A4429486&epid=530557915

So, the specs for the first 99502H bearings are listed as 16mm x 35mm x 11mm
...& the specs for the second 99502H bearings are listed as 15.875mm x 34.925mm x 11mm
Ya think the specs of them first bearings, were just "rounded off" for us stupid Americans?

IMO It looks like the snap ring, may be a way that some manufacturers used to add a "lip" or flange, to standard bearings

 

[Master Hack]

Chinese bearings what a joy. Snap rings can be added to any bearing, i can do that also. Just odd, on that bearing. Never seen one like that.
yeah, the "lip" is referred to as a flange. There ia a series of flanged bearings as well.
The thing that is conserning is the quality of the bearing. Don't expect much...
there is a better way....

 

[Master Hack]

Oh and BTW
15.875/25.4= .625
34.925/25.4= 1.375

 

[Functional Artist]

there is a better way....

OK "lay it on us" pal

Here is a bare hub w/bearings
...on a standard go kart spindle

 

[Master Hack]

First...
Does the spindle have shoulders to locate the bearing, so when ya tighten the spindle nut is doesn't preload the bearing?
If so, are those located in the proper position for bearings with the snap ring?
Or are the spindles set up for "regular" bearings? There is a difference as how far the bearings go into the hub.
What is your intentions regarding the bearings? Are you just going to lube up the chinese bearings with soy sauce and call it good, or are you thinkin about some low friction (quality) bearings. The point being, quality bearings are not going to be grooved.
Last, what is the tubing? 1.5 inch I'm guessing .120 Wall? You may have said earlier but I have old timers syndrome...

 

[Functional Artist]

Hey T,

Does the spindle have shoulders to locate the bearing, so when ya tighten the spindle nut is doesn't preload the bearing?

Here is a pic of the type of spindle that I plan on using

What is your intentions regarding the bearings?

I wasa gonn talk about "options" with "my bearing guy"
...once we "nailed down" some specs

or are you thinkin about some low friction (quality) bearings.

I wasa hopin' my bearing guy would "point me in the right direction"

Last, what is the tubing?

The tube is:
16 Gauge Carbon Steel Round Tube 1-1/2" OD .065" wall 1.37 ID

 

[Master Hack]

I'm workin on a solution.
what is the length of your hub (tube)?
Without the tube, do both bearings slide all the way on?

 

[Master Hack]

you got options, i got ideas.
What is the projected GVWR?

 

[Functional Artist]

I'm workin on a solution.
what is the length of your hub (tube)?

Probably ~3 1/2"

Without the tube, do both bearings slide all the way on?

Yes, it's essentially just a 5/8" x ~4 1/2" bolt

What is the projected GVWR?

Hopefully not more than ~350 lbs. total (race car, driver & batt pack)

FYI: Here is a video (Red Beard's) showing how to install the same brake system, that I have (on a Hammer Head go kart)
...& also, shows the front brake hubs & how the calipers mount, pretty well too

 

[Master Hack]

You don’t plan on using hubs like that? You gonna be welding sumpthin
to the tube to attach the wheel/ brake to?
can you scrounge up some .120 wall tubing?

 

[Functional Artist]

You don’t plan on using hubs like that?

Not really, for a couple of reasons

1.) Those hubs are for use with metric bolt pattern (6") rims (tallest tires available ~15")
...& I would like to use (8") rims (with taller ~16"+ tires)

Here is one of the 8" rimmed, 16" tall tires, in front of (1) of Polaris's (20" tall wheels)
(just a few inches shorter)

...& here is one of the 8" rimmed, 16" tall tires, in front of a 6" rimmed (~13" T) wheel

2.) This brake system is for a race car
...& will be controlling larger/taller tires

So, I was thinkin' about just using (3) larger rotors (like used on the rear)
...which should provide some HD stopping power, for our "race car"

For comparison, here is a front rotor, on an 8" wheel

...& here is a rear rotor, on the 8" wheel

It seems to me like the larger rotors would be more proportionate to the size of wheel that they will be controlling
But, another issue is that the (front & rear) rotors, have different bolt patterns

* Also, in the video they mention "shattering" one of these hubs
...so, they are probably Chinese-cast-something
...but, they also mention doubling up the bearings, to spread the load/for more support (but, that probably increases the rolling resistance)

 

[Functional Artist]

You gonna be welding sumpthin
to the tube to attach the wheel/ brake to?

A hub, something like this is what I need
...but, for a 4 x 4 bolt pattern (for the wheel) on one side
...& the metric (8) bolt pattern (for the rotor) on the other side

That was the plan
...but, I dunno?

Here is an Idea, I drew up, for a welding jig

Thinkin' it thru
...I'm not sure (or confident) I can "pull it off" with the equipment that I have available

The flanges have to rotate kinda true on the hubs
...& be pretty well square with the hub
...& the bolt holes (on both flanges) have to be pretty well centered too

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

Maybe make the "hub tube" a little longer than you need, put a 2-piece jig tube between the 2 flanges and clamp the whole assembly. Then spot weld the flanges on the outside, remove the clamps and the jig tube halves and weld'er-up. then cut the hub tube flush (or as needed) to the flanges. Maybe?

 

[Denny]

I like your first design hub jig better but make it adjustable because the metal will pull when welded. You want to be able to adjust that out. And if your 5 or 10 thousandths out the brakes will pulsate.

 

[Master Hack]

OK, now I have a better idea as to what yer doing.
That is going to take some work to make that true, straight and concentric.
Egor should consult with you on this.

 

[Functional Artist]

That is going to take some work to make that true, straight and concentric.

Yup,
That (true, straight and concentric) is (x 2) per hub
...or 4 times, for the 2 hubs
...& that's a lot of DIY true(ing), straight(ing) and concentric(ing)

I tried DIY machining a few flanges (these are for the smaller 5" rotors, before I decided to upgrade & use the bugger 8" rotors)

But, when I tested 'em
...they weren't even close to being true
...& they wobbled something fierce

 

[Master Hack]

Here is a little tutorial about how to measure hole to hole measurements accurately. (not easy holding the phone in one hand)
Not trying to insult anyone, but the youngn's might not know this.

So start by making sure your caliper is zeroed out.



Then measure one of the holes. Wiggle the caliper gently and go for the maximum reading.



Now zero the caliper again. Use the button that says zero, origin, or incremental, depending on your device.



Now measure the desired hole to hole.



Now when you close the caliper you should have the original hole diameter. The reading will be -
Now you have center to center of the holes.
Bolt circle diameter.
Now ya can take the diameter, hole diameter and number of holes run it through a bolt hole circle calculator and then the fun part starts.



Happy measuring!

 

[Functional Artist]

Thanks T,
Nice explanation
...& I'm still practicing

I also, try-n-find actual specs (if possible) to double check
...or help confirm my "readings"

Here is some spec info, I found, on a 4 x 4 bolt pattern for golf cart rims

...& also,

...& here is some specs for the (8) bolt rotors

Close up of the mounting hub info

 

[Master Hack]

the procedure is the same if yer measuring bolt to bolt. It helps if the bolts are tight and has an unthreaded portion.

 

[Functional Artist]

can you scrounge up some .120 wall tubing?

Hey T,

You don't think the .065 tube would be strong enough?

Using my "eyecrometer" these factory-made hubs seem to have ~1/16" tubes
...& maybe ~3/16" thick flanges

Scrounging around, I did find some thicker walled tube (~3/16" wall)

With a just a small bit of machining, I could make the 99502H bearings fit into

...but, kinda seems like overkill

Also,

Snap rings can be added to any bearing, i can do that also. Just odd, on that bearing. Never seen one like that.
yeah, the "lip" is referred to as a flange.

When I built my mini-Aerial Atom (back in like 2017) was trying some "experimental" composite rims on the front (for use on wheel barrows)
...& the "fit" of the 99502H bearings wasn't optimal (this was way before I ever heard of bearing "glue")

So, I used bearings with snap rings, (1) on each side) to make sure the bearings couldn't "move" within the wheel hub

...&/or also, so the wheel couldn't just slide right off, of the bearings/spindle