subydrift
Member
Thanks Denny!
I've used this top end kit from Go kart Supply. Worked well. Here's a video on how to do it.The cvt is what makes the gy6 shine. Without the ctv, it would be a useless turd that wouldn't get out of its own way. There's alot to gain in tuning the cvt for the gy6. Weight is a big problem. I found it best to tune it for pulling weight, that's where the gy6 lacks power is low rpm torq. The stock 150 peaks torq at 6000 rpm, and that's only around 8 ft/lbs, so to get weight to move, you gotta stall the clutch around 4000, I prefer 4500 with 18" tires. Bigger tires makes things worse. You can control that with different roller weights, and clutch springs. Buggy gy6 engines do have 3 gear reductions. Some have a 3.??:1 trans gear, some have 2.??:1, I perfere the 3.??:1, the smallest trans output sprocket, and the largest axle sprocket that will fit, for pulling 2 200# adults. The mph will be there, you jus gotta get the rpm up in the power band. That's why so many used ones are worn out.
Ebay and Amazon both have good kits, I've used both, they work, most come with new oil pumps and chains. Jus don't fall for the big bore gimmick. Most 150 blocks don't accept the big bore cylinder. You have to split the block and have the block bored so the cylinder will fit down in to it. But now there's less material around the studs.
Theres a set of numbers on the left side of crankcase close to the bottom, near the front, these will tell you if it will accept the big bore kits. I don't think it's worth the aggravation.
On those engines, the valve lash will tighten up with age. They can be picky lil sucka's. Save yourself some time and frustration and set em now. I set em at .004" on both.Little update, I got the harness bezel cut into the seats and it all looks and feels so much better! I ordered new clutch and variator assemblies from BDX Performance and then grabbed some 9 gram rollers and the 1500 rpm clutch springs off Amazon and lastly a new carb with performance jets from Go powersports. Hopefully those are the last pieces of the puzzle! I figure at this point worse case is I need to rebuild the top end of the motor but it feels like it has good compression so I'm gonna roll with it for now.
I did find a piece of the engine casting is broke off right above the cooling fan. I can't see it effecting any performance and I have the piece still so I'm gonna try to weld or JB weld it back in place to keep dirt and debris out of the stator area. I'll grab a pic for reference and any input on how to fix that would be helpful.
Should be powder coating the wheels this weekend and then she'll be rolling again!
I was talking to a buddy today about it and he convinced me to just do the rebuild since it’s out. Seems silly to do all the work we have and then chance out on the most important part of the kart. I think I’m gonna order the rebuild kit from gotbuggies.com.On those engines, the valve lash will tighten up with age. They can be picky lil sucka's. Save yourself some time and frustration and set em now. I set em at .004" on both.
Lapping the valves for a good seal wouldn't hurt, but those automotive style keepers/locks, makes it a pain without a small engine valve spring compresser.
I totally agree. I've seen more bad used one's, then good used one's.I was talking to a buddy today about it and he convinced me to just do the rebuild since it’s out. Seems silly to do all the work we have and then chance out on the most important part of the kart. I think I’m gonna order the rebuild kit from gotbuggies.com.