Tyre Changer/Bead Breaker Build

[OzFab]

Ok, here we go again, time for another useful, home made tool to save you time & a few dollars...

Please note, this tool will fit up to 18" tyres. If you intend to use larger tyres, adjust the measurements to suit. This was built specifically for 16" tyres on 8" rims but it also works on all smaller rims/tyres.

I will state all measurements in metric (millimetres) & imperial (inches) to suit everyone.

You will notice in the pic there are 2 bead shoes; this is necessary for different sized rims (an 8" shoe won't work effectively on a 5" rim) I'll start with measurements based on 8" x 6" rim & we'll go from there...

 

[OzFab]

Materials

you will need:

2.4 metres (8 feet) of 25mm (1") SHS (square hollow section/tube)
1.2 metres (4 feet) 20mm (3/4") SHS to fit smoothly inside the 25mm SHS
600mm (2') of 25mm x 3mm (1" x 1/8") flat bar
400mm (16") 20mm x 5mm (3/4" x 3/16") flat bar
250mm (10") of 15mm (5/8") round bar
23mm (7/8") of pipe to fit snugly over the round bar
4 of 8mm or 5/16" bolts 40mm (1.75") long
2 standard nuts to suit
2 nyloc nuts to suit
8 flat washers

 

[OzFab]

Cut metal to length

You will need:

25mm (1") SHS
1 x 500mm (20")
1 x 350mm (13.5")
1 x 200mm (8")
2 x 175mm (7")

20mm (3/4") SHS
2 x 100mm (4")
1 x 150mm (6")

25mm x 3mm (1" x 1/8") flat bar
4 x 100mm (4")

 

[OzFab]

Find a flat surface to weld on. This is rather critical for the first part as the base needs to be flat so it doesn't wobble.

Take the long piece (500mm) of 25mm SHS & mark to middle of the length. Now take to two short pieces (175mm) of 25mm SHS & line them up @ 90* to the long piece so the edge lines up with the mark you just made & tack them in place. You should now have a cross with the side extensions slighty off centre of the main length.

Now take one of the small pieces (100mm) of 20mm SHS & centre it on the longer end of the centre piece of the cross (see pic 5) & tack it in place. Centred meaning when you slide a piece of 25mm SHS over it, it will be even with the base piece.

Now take the leftover length of 25mm (1") SHS & slide the 150mm (6") piece of 20mm (3/4") SHS inside it until the ends are level & tack them together

 

[Jonester 123]

I need to build one of these, i will be changing my 4.10x3.50x4 fronts and 4.10x3.50x6 back tires with racing slicks of the same size. Cool man

 

[OzFab]

Well, get to the metal shop & try to keep up

 

[HellSpawn]

Nice design, Does it do its job pretty easily? I like my air ram bead breaker but I need something smaller for doing ATV tires and such.

 

[OzFab]

I'm 160lbs & I can do it effortlessly

 

[OzFab]

Marking & Drilling

In this step, all the marks will be on the centreline of the pieces: ie: the centre along the length. It would be a good idea if you have a scratch guage, adjustable length square or any other equipment for marking parallel lines to set it to 1/2" now as all pieces are 25mm or 1".

FYI: For those who don't already know, when drilling steel, no matter what size the hole needs to be, always start with a 1/8" drill bit & increase to the necessary size from there.

Below is a list of all the pieces that need to be drilled for now. Each item is followed by a measurement to be marked from the end of that piece.

25mm (1") SHS
1 x 350mm (13.5") - 50mm (2")
1 x 200mm (8") - 50mm (2")

The long piece of 25mm (1") SHS with the 20mm (3/4") SHS welded inside it - 12.5mm (1/2") & 120mm (4.5") on the double layer end

4 x 100mm (4") peices of 25mm x 3mm (1" x 1/8") flat bar - 12.5mm (1/2")

Find the absoluty centrepoint of the main base frame where the sides meet the centre bar. This will eventually be drilled out to accommodate the short piece of pipe.

Once you've drilled everything out with a 1/8" bit you can go ahead & drill all but the first two pieces out to 8mm (5/16") then file off any burrs or rough edges.

FYI: Unless you're using a drill press, be sure to accurately mark & drill from both sides of the SHS to ensure the holes line up square

 

[OzFab]

Ok, now that everything is drilled we're ready for a bit more assembly & welding.

Find youself a long straight edge, like a metre rule or yard stick. Take two of the 75mm lengths of 25mm x 3mm flat bar & bolt them to the long piece of 25mm SHS (as shown in pic 1 below).

Take the two short lengths of 25mm SHS (350mm & 200mm) &, on the opposite end to the drilled hole, mark a line across them 25mm (1") from the end on the same face as the drilled hole.

Now, with both holes on the same face & everything on a flat surface, place one of the pieces between the two plates & line up the mark with the end of the plate (see pic 2). Use the straight edge & the two remaining small plates to ensure everything is straight then clamp it & tack the plates to the SHS (also pic 2).
Once you're happy with the alignment, unbolt it & repeat the process with the other piece.

The main assembly is almost done... tomorrow we'll start on the breaker shoe

 

[Fallenleopard]

this is great, i might have to go grab some metal and try follow along

 

[Blazkowiez]

I do enjoy watching when you've got a build like this going fabro. Keep up the good work, this will be a great tool to those who don't have access to a commercial grade bead breaker.

 

[OzFab]

Ok, there's one little step before we move on to the shoe; we need to put the centre mount in.

For some reason, I have no pics of this step, no idea why not so, I hope you can all figure it out.

First things first, test fit the small length of pipe onto the piece fo 5/8" round bar to ensure it fits snugly.

Once you've done that, take the base frame & enlarge the hole in the centre until it's big enough for the pipe to fit in

* You will most likely need to grind flat edges on opposite sides of the pipe to make it fit inside the 25mm SHS.

When you've done that, the top of the pipe should sit flush with the top of the frame. Use the round bar to square the pipe to the frame & tack the pipe in place. Do not weld the round bar!. Now remove the round bar & complete the weld. For added strength, drill holes in the bottom of the frame on the outside of the pipe & plug weld it in place.

Now you can finish welding everything on the base then grind/sand everything until you're happy with it. *It doesn't matter if most of the weld are left rough but the top & bottom are critical.

 

[OzFab]

Bead Breaker Shoe

Please note:The first post has changed! The rim measurement is 8" x 6", not 6" x 6" as previously stated (brain spasm )

Take what should be the last cut piece of metal (100mm (4") length of 20mm SHS & cut a V into it (as seen in pic 1) 25mm long. The first cut should be even with the inside edge. Once you've done that, cut 5mm (3/16") off the opposite side then from the new end diagonally to the end of the first cut.

Now, using whatever means necessary (pliers, vice, hammer) close the gap to create a point (as seen in pic 2) then weld it closed & grind/sand smooth.

Now to the fun part: Take the remaining 25mm x 3mm flat bar & bend it to the same profile as your wheel. If you have access to a metal roller or bender, great. If not, I've prepared a short video to show you how to do it with a bench vice:



Once you're happy with the shape (as in pic 3) place it on a flat surface & find the centre (as shown in pics 4 & 5) then using a small spacer (3mm - 5mm), position the 20mm SHS as shown in pic 6, making sure there's a 2mm - 3mm gap between the SHS & the flat bar & tack the top in place. Once you double check the gap at the bottom, you can tack that too. Once it's all tacked, the SHS should lean forward into the shoe slightly

 

[OzFab]

Almost done.

Take the shorter of the two pieces we assembled in post 10 & slide the breaker shoe into the end with the hole drilled in it as shown in pics 1 & 2 & drill through the inside piece.

Now take the longer piece we assembled in post 10 & drop it over the upright piece of the base as shown in pics 3 & 4 Then drill out the inside piece.

Now drill all 8 holes out to 8mm (5/16").

Once you've drilled them out bolt them together using the bolts flat washers & standard nuts as shown in pics 5 & 6.

Now take the long 25mm SHS with the two holes drilled in it & place the end on the upright of the base & bolt it together with a bolt, 2 flat washers & a nyloc nut. as shown in pic 7

Making sure the long piece (which we'll now call the lever) sits over the frame, align the piece with the shoe attached with the second hole in the lever & bolt it together the same as the upright as shown in pic 8.

The nyloc nuts need to be loose enough to allow the lever to swing freely but not so loose that everything has excessive movement

 

[OzFab]

Finishing Touches

Now that we're done, you can go over it & finish/clean up any welds, round off the corners of the uprights for safety &, most importantly, round off the bottom corners of the breaker shoe (as seen in pic) to ensure it doesn't damage your tyre while braeking the bead.

If you've ended up with a 6' lever, you can also cut that down to about 3'. Remember, the longer it is, the less force you need

You can even give it a coat of paint...

 

[OzFab]

Demo vid!!!!

I was intending to use my 8" rims for this vid but, once I deflated the tyre, I found I could break the beads by hand so, I've demo'd with my racing style rims instead. Same concept, just smaller.

Oh, apologies for the (lack of) volume; one can only do so much with a cheap camera...




If there are any instructions anywhere in this build that are a bit hard to understand, please let me know & I'll try to reword it

 

[Nodroz]

Looks awesome! Some day, when I need it, I'll remember this topic. Thanks.

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Brilliant! Added to Helpful Links sticky!

 

[OzFab]

Awesome, thanks Looks like the "sucking up" paid off

Oh, BTW, it's not finished yet; I did say it was a tyre changer...