Tyre Changer/Bead Breaker Build

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Doc Sprocket

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That's cool- finished or not, I know it WILL be finished, and therefore is worthy. I may have pasted it prematurely, but I think I can predict the result.

And no- it's NOT finished. Where the he// is the engine?:roflol:
 

Doc Sprocket

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Engine- "From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
This article is about a machine to convert energy into useful mechanical motion. For other uses of engine, see Engine (disambiguation). For other uses of motor, see Motor (disambiguation).

An engine or motor is a machine designed to convert energy into useful mechanical motion.[1][2] Heat engines, including internal combustion engines and external combustion engines (such as steam engines) burn a fuel to create heat which is then used to create motion. Electric motors convert electrical energy into mechanical motion, pneumatic motors use compressed air and others, such as clockwork motors in wind-up toys use elastic energy. In biological systems, molecular motors like myosins in muscles use chemical energy to create motion."

C'mon- it's gotta have an engine!!!:D
 

Doc Sprocket

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Oh haha, I know what an engine is, but this runs on a 1 person power engine

Oh... Lame... Why not build a pedal car... You suck.

:roflol:

Okay- you could use a nice, tricked out 6.5 with a CVT to turn the wheel while you put the bars to it... Better be awful quick with those bars! LOL- home of the 5-millisecond tire mounting machine! :cheers2:
 

OzFab

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Oh... Lame... Why not build a pedal car... You suck.

:roflol:

Okay- you could use a nice, tricked out 6.5 with a CVT to turn the wheel while you put the bars to it... Better be awful quick with those bars! LOL- home of the 5-millisecond tire mounting machine! :cheers2:

Umm, I think most people would want to keep their wrists intact :worried2:
 

OzFab

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Tyre Levers

For this you'll need:

370mm (14.5") of 20mm SHS
100mm (4") 20mm x 5mm (3/4" x 3/16") flat bar: This piece should not be cut until later.
75mm (3") 20mm x 5mm (3/4" x 3/16") flat bar: This piece should not be cut until later.
150mm - 200mm of 20mm x 3mm (3/4" x 1/8") flat bar: This piece should not be cut until later.

The above materials are needed to make one lever. Keep in mind you need to make two. The instructions given will indicate the procedure to make two unless, like me, the second is for a custom application.

First, take the length of 20mm SHS & cut one end as shown in pics 1 & 2. Obviously, pic 1 (diagram) does not indicate the true length.
 

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OzFab

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Now take 20mm x 5mm flat bar &, using a bench vice or metal bender, bend it into a flat S shape as shown in pic 1. To achieve this with a vice, first mark points @ 20mm (3/4"), 40mm (1 5/8"), 75mm (3") & 100mm (4")(pic 2). Now place the length of bar in the vice at the 40mm point (pic 3) & pull. Once you're happy with the angle (it needs to be overbent because it will bend back slightly when you make the second bend)(pic 4), turn it around (so the bar now bends away from you), lock it in the vice at the 20mm mark (pics 5 & 6) & bend. You can now use a hammer & your vice to perfect the shape.

Once you're happy with the shape, cut it off at the 100mm mark. Then, on the end you just cut, grind down the width to the 75mm mark until it fits inside the 20mm SHS as seen in pic (pic 9)
 

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OzFab

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Now take the S & slip it into the V'd end of the SHS so that the wide section is adjacent to the square flaps (as opposed to the triangular ones) up to the 75mm mark &, making sure it's straight, tack it to one of the flaps. Now bend the two square flaps together & tack the other sides so you end up with something that looks like pics 1 & 2. Now complete the welds.

You will notice that the end points up quite a bit so place the S in your vice at the weld & bend it back so it's relatively straight (pic 3)

From now on, the side that points up (see pic 4) we will call the top.

On the opposite end, mark the SHS as shown in pic 5 & cut as shown in pic 6, taking note that the material is cut off the bottom edge.

Now take the 75mm piece of 20mm x 5mm flat bar & place a mark 20mm from each end. Place it in the vice & bend it slightly then line up the other mark with the top (pic 7) & tack it in place.

Note: There should be an angle to the end of the SHS. Once the end is attached, it should angle down to the right if you're right handed or down to the left if you're left handed (pics 8 & 9)
 

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OzFab

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The next step is to make a brace for the side. Without it, the lever will try to twist as you attempt to put a tyre onto a rim.

Find the smallest & largest rims you intend to use on this & mount the small one on the base frame. Making sure the lever is locked completely into the edge of the rim (pic 1) use the centre post as reference & mark the lever on the side closest to the end (also pic 1).

Remove the small rim & mount the large rim. Making sure the end of the lever is well away (about 1") from the outer edge of the rim, mark the lever on the other side of the post (pic 2).

Take the length of 20mm x 3mm flat bar & bend it into a long U shape (pics 3 & 4). The length of the ends sould be slightly more than the width of your centre post & the overall length should be about 1/2" more than the measurement of the two marks you placed on the lever(pic 5). Once you're happy with the size & shape, weld it in place over the marks. (pic 6)

Important note: I welded the brace on the right side of the lever because I'm left handed! If you're right handed, you need to weld it on the left side!
 

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OzFab

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Final step: Shaping

First, we'll concentrate on the pointy end:

Cut &/or grind the S end so the end is round (pic 1). Now just take the sharp edge off the bottom. The top needs to have a large, wide, elliptical radius on both edges so it lifts the bead but doesn't tear into it (pics 2, 3, 4 & 5).

On the other end, slightly round off all the edges & corners then create the same shape to the outside of the bottom section (pics 6 & 7).

The last thing to do is make sure the bend is enough to hang on the edge of the rim but no too much as to force it off (pic 8)

You can form this piece to fit the edge exactly but it will then be specific to that rim & will not be universal to all rims
 

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souperman000

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Just looking at the pics, it looks intricate yet easy at the same time. Just wondering, have you just been drawing designs as you go or are you basing it off something?

Vids would be appreciated :D
 

OzFab

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Just looking at the pics, it looks intricate yet easy at the same time. Just wondering, have you just been drawing designs as you go or are you basing it off something?

A bit of both. The bead breaker is based on a standard race kart tool & the levers are loosely based on a car tyre changer lever I used years ago, I just modified & combined both designs to suit my needs.

As for drawings/designs, I have a plan for the bead breaker just to figure out materials but I mostly just winged it...

Vids would be appreciated :D

Yeah yeah, they're coming. Did you see the vid for the clutch puller?
 

OzFab

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Yup I did, and I hope you didn't break anything :worried2:.

Only the pulley on the drum when we were trying to get it moving. No big deal, I wasn't gonna use it anyway; the thing is massive & weighs a ton :worried2:
 

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OzFab

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For those who don't already know, here's a bit of wheel identification so that when you hear me using certain terms in the vids, you'll know what I'm talking about:

Pic 1: This is a rim
Pic 2: This is a tyre (or, as you Americans spell it, tire)
The two combined make a wheel (just thought I'd clarify that)

Have you ever wondered why wheels are made the shape they are, ie: with the deep section (wheel well) in the middle? Pics 4 & 5 show that it's to provide ease of fitment & removal of the tyre
 

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OzFab

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Demo Vids!!!

How to remove a tyre using your homemade bead breaker/tyre changer



How to fit a tyre using your homemade bead breaker/tyre changer



This concludes the tutorial. If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask :thumbsup:
 
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